In 1945 the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture established another set of rules to determine and regulate Haute Couture houses. In order to meet the criteria, a fashion house had to ensure they followed newly imposed including that each season, a couture house must present a collection of at least 35 runs with both daytime and evening wear to the Paris press. Other rules included having a staff of at least twenty and that every design must include fittings and be made-to-order for the clientele. The ensuing Haute Couture biannual events are considered the origin of the official Paris Fashion Week.
The first recognized Paris Fashion Week was held in 1973 and organized Haute Couture, Ready-to-Wear, and Men’s Fashion into one grouped showing by the Fédération Française de la Couture. The event was a fundraiser held at the Palace Of Versailles to restore the once iconic, albeit decaying, palace.
It’s befitting that the event, in no small part born in the restoration of European luxury is still doing so, whether it knows it or not. This time, the revolution in France has less to do with Maximilien Robespierre’s rage in the streets, and more to do with just the streets, period.
Military and hunting-inspired pieces, various forms of camo, cargo pants with modern cuts and shapes all feature this go around. Lots of cross body bags, militia and futura-punk accessories, and street luxe lines lines featuring over sized, elongated cut tops and tracksuits- traxedos if you will, rule the roost.
Emerging designers and lines are taking cues from below, not the man in the high castle, and we at Wanderset always have our eyes and minds on what’s next. It’s sci-fi futura, urban militant, euro hooligan chill, and elevated sublimation as a fluid combination. The painted heart with the eyes from French-Japanese line Comme Des Garcons: Play personifies the beautiful contradiction that is fashion these days.
Here’s your style guide for PFW’s emerging looks.
PROFOUND AESTHETIC : Camo Pullover Fur Hooded Jacket
Checks all the boxes for PFW’s steeze in 2018. Patches and embroidery, camo/military print, and shoulder framed patch work. Stellar for the season.
REPRESENT: Black Text Striped Track Pant
European street luxe from UK’s amazing house of Represent – Traxedo in it’s essence, along with Top, see below.
REPRESENT: Tawny Track Jacket
The House Of REPRESENT is on it. Tracksuit Jacket with a funnel neck collar. Featuring custom text woven tape from the neck to cuff.
Gorgeous Italian leather upper is made of Nubuck with canvas side panels for improved ventilation. Rubber Margom outsole with a custom hand made bottom attached for extra ruggedness. It’s aggressive and durable rubber tread walks the line between Bladerunner futura, and street militant.
EN | NOIR : Shearling Collar Morrison Trucker Jacket
Shearling is a skin from a recently sheared sheep or lamb that has been tanned and dressed with the wool left on. It has a suede surface on one side and a clipped fur surface on the other, and it can also be fur from a sheep shorn only once. It’s the accent material of the season, and here’s an amazing example and drop from the mind of designer Rob Garcia, founder of American street luxe line EN NOIR.